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Kendrick's coral silk georgette gown, a custom piece by the New York designer Thakoon Panichgul, dominated the early red-carpet conversation on Twitter

Rio, as the 28-year-old designer is known to his chums in voguing circles, had shed his shirt and with it, apparently, his last shred of inhibition, before releasing on his catwalk a giddy procession of male and female models done up in brocade boleros, raffia-trimmed skirts, chambray shorts and carpenter pants that slid down the hips like crisp upmarket saggers